Choquequirau and beyond

Holala,

This past week we embarked on a grand adventure to the unknown Inca ruin of Choquequirau. Unlike other famous Inca ruins, this one can only be reached by 3-5 days of walking and is still 70% hidden in the jungle. As the route is difficult (down 1500 m to the river and up 150o m on the other side and at the elevation of 3000m), we decided to hire a mule to carry our extras. Our arriero (donkey driver) was 17 year old Whitman, probably the sweetest, most mature and responsible 17 year old around.

Day 1 we set out strong, James insisted on carrying his pack, even though the others urged him to put it on the mule. Finally they just gave up and said in Spanish, he won´t listen anyway. After about 3 hours of walking, the sun was strong but we were feeling ok. We passed the first camp site and decided to go on. It didn´t take too long to realize we made a bad decision. We were descending and not feeling too great from the sun. We asked Whitman if there was another campsite to stay at and he said by the river. When we reached the river, James was as red as a tomato, Whitman apologized and said there is no food here for the mule (who we named Iris because she did not have a name as it is not common to name work animals in Peru - shame), we have to climb 2 hours to the next campsite. This is when James starting having his first break down. Off came the pack and for the next 3 hours or so James walked for thirty seconds and rested for 3 mins. I felt like chasing him up the hill with a stick. Whitman went on ahead, in his tiny little sandles, and had set up our tent by the time we arrived. End of day 1.

Day 2 we walked for quite a few hours but had the reward of seeing Choquequirau. Amazing to see a ruin just poking out of the jungle. At times we were the only people exploring around. Not only is the ruin beautiful, but the position at the junction of three valleys, with a bright green river and snowed capped mountains is very impressive. We felt that magical feeling one imagines when they think of Peru.

Day 3, again started out strong. Heading down for two hours and then up for one. Again decided to move on to the next campsite because it was early and we were feeling good. Mistake! When we finally arrived at the campsite we discovered that there was no water. Again Whitman insisted we move on , just up for two hours and another hour to a farm where we could camp. Break down number two. The climb was very steep and James insisted he couldn´t do it, but very very very slowly the three of us and Iris made our way up. Poor James really wasn´t feeling well and just before the top he got sick. At least this put him in a better mood and encouraged him to keep walking. We made it to the farm, but of course, there was no one home, so we had to walk back to the town in which we started. I think we walked 28 km down down down and then up up up on day 3. Of course Whitman was feeling fine as we limped bacl into town.

The guides suggest you do the hike in 4 to 5 days but we did it in 3 (not are our finest) days.

As a reward we have been enjoying the sun, sand, pool and wine of Ica. However are moving on to meet some friends in Ayacucho tonight.

Ciao Ciao, M

Author´s note: As I reread the blog, it seems a bit harsh. I must point out that the conditions were very difficult, it was hot and I am actually quite proud of James for making it all the way up on the third day! Cheers for James! As well, it was well worth the effort as Choquequirau was a splendid sight!